Future of Skincare

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Sheer Physical Protection SPF50 PA++++ This lightweight, transparent fl uid o ers physical broad spectrum UVA/UVB sun protection with a virtually invisible universal tint and ultra-sheer mattifying texture that is ideal for all skin types, including sensitive skin. Formulated with all-physical fi lters, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, to provide broad spectrum UVA/ UVB protection and defend against UV damage, along with an antioxidant PHA/Bionic complex to help preserve skin's natural collagen and fi rmness. Potent antioxidants EGCG Green Tea Extract, Lactobionic Acid and Vitamin E work to neutralise free radicals and help preserve healthy DNA, promoting youthful looking skin. Daily Use Sun Protection PA++++ SPF50 "Sheer Perfection" new NeoStrata Skin Active Best Cosmeceutical Range WINNER in both 2013 & 2014 NeoStrata Skin Active Best Cosmeceutical Range 2014 Aesthetic Source Best Customer Service 2014 Distributed in the UK by AestheticSource Call us: 01234 313130 | www.neostrata.co.uk B eware the toxic avengers. A gang of Marvel anti-heroes? No, but in terms of skin age- ing, just as threatening. The expression refers to environmental aggressors and Mintel, who coined the catchy headline, say in a recent report: "The cosmetics industry has been awakening consumers to the immedi - ate, visible and personal effects of pol- lution that threaten our skin." About time too as the Skin Cancer Foundation estimates that 90 per cent of premature ageing is caused by envi- ronmental damage, including ultraviolet (UV) rays. "The negative impact of en- vironmental factors other than UV light has long been neglected," says Dr Stefan- ie Williams, independent dermatologist at European Dermatology in London and spokesperson for Avon. What are these villainous factors and what do they do? "Pollution is created by emissions of toxic gases," explains Dr Rachael Eckel, a cosmetic dermatologist. "Combined with UV rays from sunlight it creates a highly reactive molecule that causes damage to proteins, collagen and lipids in the skin. Remember, the main function of the skin is to act as a barrier or a shield." Kiehl's consulting dermatologist Dr Adam Geyer adds: "When breathed in, pollutants generate circulating free rad - icals and increase our inflammatory state by activating our immune response which can accelerate signs of ageing." But what evidence is there that this actually makes you look older? "Kitchen logic says pollution is bad for the skin, but we needed a technical rationale," says Dr Frauke Neuser, Olay principal scientist. In a breakthrough last year, Olay skincare presented a joint study at the annual conference of the Chinese Dermatologist Association proving that pollution has a significantly detrimen - tal effect. The most important finding? Living in a highly polluted area ages people 10 per cent faster than their country cousins. "We recruited two groups of 100 women aged between 30 and 45, one living within the ring-road of Beijing and the other in the suburbs," says Dr Neuser. "The scientists measured the hydration, barrier function, softness, texture and proteins on the skin. We found that the women in the city centre had a 10 per cent lower weaker barrier function be - cause of significantly lower levels of pro- teins that makes the barrier strong." Although widely reported that the Olay study stated that particulate matter 2.5 (PM 2.5), the term for large, sugar-gran - ule-sized toxic polluted particles can be absorbed into the skin, this is not true. "PM 2.5 particles are too large to pen- etrate," says Dr Neuser. "But chemicals that are attached to them, such as from fuel, oil, diesel and pesticides, will pen- etrate and kick off a reaction with free radical production and oxidative stress which of course ages the skin." On a day of high pollution, skin conditions will flare up too. "It's a vicious circle," she continues. "Every time you go out, the chemicals can penetrate more easily and the barrier is weakened." So Beijing is notoriously polluted, right? Actually London's Oxford Street has the worst pollution in the world with levels of nitrogen dioxide (NO 2) at up to ten times the legal limit, according to a study by King's College London. Hence UK beauty companies are falling over themselves to produce products to prevent and fight back against the attack of the toxic avengers. "We have seen the emergence of several skin products aimed at combatting and removing pol - lutants," says Karla Rendle, research ana- lyst at Euromonitor International. "With a high proportion of the UK demographic living in densely populated urban areas, as with sun protection, anti-pollution has the potential to become a standard con - cern and part of consumers' daily skin- care routine." SkinCeuticals says it best with the slogan "Sunscreens are not enough". The hero product is C E Ferulic that swoops in like Superman to disarm free radicals on the skin. Elizabeth Arden's Toxic avengers attack Pollution created by emissions of toxic gases, notably from traffic, is the enemy of healthy skin and must be defeated ENVIRONMENTAL DAMAGE BEATRICE AIDIN London's Oxford Street has the worst pollution in the world with levels of nitrogen dioxide at up to ten times the legal limit faster ageing of women's skin from urban pollution 10% Source: American Academy of Dermatology 10 | FUTURE OF SKINCARE 10 / 06 / 2015 | RACONTEUR raconteur.net

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