The Beauty Economy

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02 | BEAUTY ECONOMY 27 / 09 / 2015 | RACONTEUR raconteur.net COMMERCIAL FEATURE maximum rate of increase in skin density recorded under the study Technology and data aside, a revolutionary supplement isn't of much use unless you're inclined to take it. The fact that Skinade is a pleasantly and naturally flavoured drink makes committing to the minimum course of 30 days far easier than popping a handful of pills. In fact, you'd need at least 20 large tablets to get the same level of actives. Moreover, the 35-calorie mangosteen and peach-flavoured drink doesn't contain meat (pork or bovine), hormones, genetically modified organisms, alcohol, soy, artificial flavours or artificial colours. It's also lactose, gluten and dairy free, making it compliant with even the most restrictive of diets. www.skinade.com Collagen is a word that is bandied around the beauty industry with abandon. And with good reason: it constitutes around 30 per cent of the body and functions as the connective tissue for muscles and joints as well as organs and arteries. It's also a critical structural component of the skin, the very thing that prevents the sagging and wrinkling associated with the ageing process. The integrity of an individual's collagen is a reliable indicator for the way in which that person will age, both internally and externally. But even those with enviable genetics and a dedicated skincare routine will be at the mercy of collagen degradation at a somewhat alarming rate of 1.5 per cent per year from the age of 20. Over time this means thinner, looser, drier and less resilient skin, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. And so "topping up" your own supply is a sensible and seemingly simple measure. The studies bear out this logic, many of them demonstrating that a treatment plan can stimulate new, non-fragmented collagen, and improve the appearance and function of skin. "Most skin supplements on the market are based upon collagen delivery mechanisms which trigger the body's own collagen production – fibroblast stimulation – as part of a natural feedback system," says Dr Paul Banwell of The Banwell Clinic. Choosing a collagen supplement isn't quite as straightforward, however. Like anti- ageing creams, not all collagen-infused "nutricosmetics" are created equal. There are several variables at play that will determine whether a supplement will be effective. Bioavailability, dosage, molecular weight a n d t h e s y n e r g i s t i c r e l a t i o n s h i p b e t we e n ingredients all play a part in whether a nutricosmetic will have the desired effect. Skinade is 100 per cent in solution making it a highly bioavailable collagen drink that is pre-engineered for 95 per cent absorption. Formulated with the assistance of nutritional pharmacologist s , the nex t- generation nutricosmetic employs class-leading 2kDal patented type 1 and type 3 collagen peptides from freshwater fish, the same collagen type that makes up the skin. Hydrolysed marine collagen is so effective that a study in Japan recently revealed that an impressive 91 per cent of its participants saw an average increase of 28 per cent in skin hydration and resilience. But collagen alone is not enough to guarantee any kind of noticeable result, least of all the plumper, younger skin that is so often promised by brands. There's a whole supporting cast of ingredients required so that collagen synthesis will actually take place in the body. Skinade's formulation contains five other key ingredients to ensure maximum efficacy. Most important is vitamin C as calcium ascorbate, which is integral to normal collagen formation. "Vitamin B and MSM [methylsulfonylmethane] have a detoxifying effect on the skin, and can help release congestion and toxin build-up," says Dr Banwell. "MSM and omega 3 and 6, meanwhile, have strong anti-inflammatory properties, which help soothe breakouts while encouraging skin to release impurities. "Strong antioxidants, such as vitamin B, C and L-lysine together with collagen help increase the production of ceramides, natural lipids that serve as part of the 'glue' which holds surface skin cells together. "An optimal skin drink should contain a number of these co-factors and nutrients to really help treat skin conditions from the inside, while improving the elasticity and density of the collagen structure." With a wealth of technology and research behind it, the inside-out approach becomes not only plausible, but also logical. "I was sceptical at first," says Dr Banwell. "However, we trialed Skinade with our patients and have had some astounding results in terms of improved skin appearance and patient satisfaction." The co-factors and nutrients have also had an impact on troublesome dertmatological conditions, says Dr Kathryn Taylor-Barnes, a GP and aesthetic professional, at the Real You Clinic. "Acne, eczema and psoriasis are all conditions that incur some degree of inflammation to the skin. Skinade's ingredients help the skin cope and manage inflammation allowing it to be stronger and heal faster," she says. Earlier this year, Santi Skin Lab in London's South Kensington conducted a 90-day Skinade trial. Changes in collagen structure were measured by state-of-the-art technology employed in pioneering dermatological research. Unlike standard imaging machines, which effectively take a picture of superficial levels of damage, Cortex technology from Denmark scans seven key parameters from sebum levels to elasticity and trans-epidermal water loss. Changes in collagen structure are immediately noticeable in the form of densely packed yellow areas (pictured). All participants were taken off their usual skincare routine of active topicals for the duration of the trial and results were compared to a placebo. The trial group saw an average 25.5 per cent increase in collagen density, a 34 per cent increase in skin hydration and a 28 per cent improvement in skin elasticity versus the control group or placebo. The most impressive revelation, however, was one subject registering a 73 per cent increase in collagen density over the three-month trial. It is this calibre of data that has earned Skinade the approval of leading dermatologists and clinicians, as well as strong customer feedback via trust pilot. With some 600 professional clinics stocking Skinade around the country, the inside-out approach to skincare is becoming an increasingly appealing and effective way to achieve visible results. 'ASTOUNDING' RESULTS OF INSIDE-OUT SKIN DRINK The inside-out approach to skincare is becoming an increasingly appealing and effective way to achieve visible results We trialed Skinade with our patients and have had some astounding results in terms of improved skin appearance and patient satisfaction 73% average increase in collagen density 25.5% increase in skin hydration 34% improvement in skin elasticity compared with the placebo control group 28% Santi trial baseline results Santi trial one-month results Santi trial three-month results T hat there is a symbiotic relation- ship between our inner reality and our outward appearance is all too obvious for millenials. For these 20 and 30-somethings, looking good is synonymous with feeling good, an expression of physical, emotional and psy - chological health. It's a far cry from the "plastering the cracks" approach to cosmetic perfection that saw us through the last few decades. Rather than camouflage flaws, the focus is squarely set on identifying root causes and fixing them with the energetic gusto of a soccer mum on stimulants. And so Instagram is saturated with pic - tures of cold pressed green juices, punish- ing workouts and cringe-worthy motiva- tional memes from the #fitfam: "Sweat is just fat crying!" And those who aren't on social media to boast about last week's co- lonic are no doubt on a "digital detox". These faintly LA-ish idiosyncrasies are part and parcel of the quest for beauty in 2015. The cleanses and detoxes used to be typical among yoga pals, but today they're as mandatory as moisturiser. Never before has the idea of suffering for one's beauty been so true. "I think millennials are very conscious of how their parents have handled their health and how they've aged," says Sue Harmsworth, an outspoken advocate of holistic living and a grande dame of the spa industry. With this awareness, the very act of beau - tifying has become a lifestyle choice rather than something that is done from time to time, like a facial or a crash diet. Retail- ers have followed suit. Where traditional beauty unguents once lined shelves, de- partment stores now offer the Face Work- out, a £120 cardio sculpting gym session for your face, and beautifying beverages hydrolysed with marine collagen. Elle "The Body" McPherson has bottled the secret to her perfection, an organic alkalis - ing greens supplement called the Super Elixir, while everyone from Dove to L'Oréal have concocted high-tech "nutraceuticals" for your skin. The term "wellness" has sprung from nowhere, a bizarre amalgamation of fit - ness and wellbeing that implies health is ultimately about balancing all aspects of ourselves, psyche and soma. The problem, however, is that the term is often misun - derstood and misused. "Everybody wants wellness, but nobody knows what it really means," says Ms Harmsworth. "A spa might have a healthy option on the menu but, to me, that isn't what wellness is about." Wellness means different things in dif - ferent countries but, broadly speaking, the term encompasses fitness, nutrition, WELLNESS MARKET AHMED ZAMBARAKJI Granted, there's an air of middle-class smugness about the passion for kale and hot yoga, but the truth is we've never been ex - posed to as much psy- chological stress as we face today. The reali- sation that we may be on the brink of expir- ing – "frenetic" occu- pational burnout, as it is sometimes called – is as much a driver for wellness as the desire to look beautiful. For Ms Harmsworth, nothing epitomis - es the wellness movement more com- pletely than a destination spa. "They're life-changing places, but there are only a handful of them in the world," she says in reference to the big names such as Mayr in Austria, and Kamalaya and Chiva-Som in Thailand. Oases of calm, their preventative approach to healthcare is far less intimi - dating and cold than a visit to the GP. Whale music and aggressive massage are a thing of the past. The pioneering desti- nations in the industry now have a strong medical, sometimes even spiritual, slant. They offer results-driven programmes devised by resident nutritionists, naturo - paths, personal trainers, mediation teach- ers and a variety of highly effective "alter- native" therapists, (if you don't.... you will soon). Customers will invariably check in with a very clear objective in mind: to lose weight, stop smoking, sleep better and detox. The catch is these goals take weeks and, being so time poor, many people overlook the fact that not much can be achieved in seven days. "You used to be able to go away for two or three weeks and actually rest – completely disconnect – but that just doesn't happen anymore. We live very 'tight' lives," says Ms Harmsworth. "Health farms didn't believe in short breaks, which is what people take now." Rather than attempt a radical rehabil - itation at a destination spa in ten days or less, the aim should be to make a consist- ent change over a longer period with the tools and education to take better care of ourselves. "That's what a wellness spa should be about," Ms Harmsworth concludes. "Pre- vention is important – people leave things too late." mental health and altogether "mindful" living. To its credit, it has finally given the otherwise fluffy beauty industry some much-needed currency. The Global Well - ness Summit values the market at $3.4 tril- lion, 3.4 times larger than the pharmaceu- tical industry. Of that vast sum, beauty and anti-ageing accounts for $1.025 trillion, fitness and mind/body $446.4 billion, and healthy eating $574.2 billion. The spa in - dustry, the epicentre of the wellness move- ment, accounts for $94 trillion. The desire to detoxify quite so dramat- ically is, in part, a response to the rapid technological progress of the last 20 years. Working at a computer and living with an iPhone welded to our right hand means we're consuming far more information than we can mentally process. "And don't forget the impact of all that blue light on sleep," says Ms Harmsworth. "I think sleep depriva - tion is a major problem today and one that has very real health con- sequences." Couple this with the fact that many of us work well in excess of 40 hours a week, and it's no surprise that fatigue, illness, low-level pain and depression are an epidemic in 2015. Wellness means different things in different countries but, broadly speaking, the term encompasses fitness, nutrition, mental health and altogether 'mindful' living Wellness in mind As the pace of life shows little sign of slowing down, 20 and 30-somethings are taking an holistic approach to wellness Source: Global Wellness Summit/SRI International 2013 $3.44TRN GLOBAL WELLNESS MARKET CASE STUDY: BEAUTY FOODS So-called functional foods and beauty beverages constitute a growing portion of the wellness market. Fountain beauty drinks, containing hyaluronic acid and the antioxidant resver- atrol, remain a bestseller in the UK, while the recently launched Beauty & Go is the first skincare drink to contain patented MacroAntioxidants along with collagen. In Brazil there is Sunlover, a drink that super-charges your tan, while Germany has produced a "drinkable facial" in the form of Crystal Light's Skin Essen- tial. In the Far East, there are anti-ageing marshmallows and fat-burning candies, many of them now available in the UK as imports. Collagen is one of the most common age-defying ingredi- ents found in beauty foods for the simple reason that it's the glue which holds everything together. Paired with keratin, it makes for stronger, more resilient skin. The thinking behind collagen-infused beverages is plausible: production of collagen declines after 30 and ingesting it is a far more effective way to replensigh supplies than relying solely on a moisturiser. The reality, however, is more complex. The body will not reliably use the ingredient to improve your skin over, say, muscle mass or immunity unless it is delivered in a very specific way. Moreover, bioavaiabili- ty – the amount of a critical ingredient that a body absorbs – is a crucial factor in determining whether any supplement (multivitamin or beauty food) is actually worth taking. Beauty and anti-ageing $1,025bn Healthy eating, nutrition and weight loss $574bn Wellness tourism $494bn Fitness and mind-body $446bn Preventive/ personalised health $432bn Complementary/ alternative medicine $186bn Wellness lifestyle real estate $100bn Spa industry $94bn Thermal/ mineral springs $50bn Workplace wellness $40bn Share this article on social media via raconteur.net

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